The Real French Polynesia...
The Island Dubbed as Bora Bora 50 Years Ago
Heralded as the most beautiful islands in the world, The Society’s do little to disappoint. Lush land masses confettied with tropical flora rise up proud from turquoise lagoons teeming with life.
But it was this smaller, lesser known island that captured our hearts. With a population of just over 1,000 and a strong opposition to the building of resort hotels, it is a stunning example of Polynesian life that feels lightyears away from the honeymooners of Bora Bora. And, even if the hotels did want to build, the island has a self defence mechanism that has been in place for thousands of years - its’ pass. There is one way in and one way out and it’s through a narrow and extremely hazardous corridor in the coral reef. Placed on the South of the island, it funnels in the prevailing swell creating perfect but deadly barreling waves - a wall of water preventing anyone coming or leaving.
A single dusty track road runs round the circumference where local dogs will escort you wagging their tails as if excited to show these new visitors round their home. Shops are simple and stocked with canned goods and store supplies. A small supply of fruit and veg comes in on the ferry once a week. The precious cargo of salad leaves, pineapples, aubergines and beans load off the dock guarded by a small cheerful group of local women with their accounting books at the ready as a crowd gathers. For that morning, they become the most important people on the island as they hold the key to the inhabitants’ nutrition.
Despite the hustle and bustle of the vitamin-C hungry crowd, the system is well organised with people having placed their orders beforehand. Unfortunately we knew little of this pre-arrangement and I was left looking at the apologetic head honcho offering a bag of damp salad leaves and some bell peppers which was all she had left. Later we managed to source a bunch of pineapples from a local who had put a healthy margin on the off-the-ferry price. Beggars can’t be choosers! After trading one of our pineapples for green beans from new boat friends our fresh galley was complete and the inventive cooking began - pineapple, green bean salad anyone?
Weather conditions meant once we arrived inside the lagoon we weren’t able to leave again for 8 days. Time slowed to the pace of this ancient island, a forced break encouraging us to stretch into the days; walking, swimming, boat jobs and admin. One evening we heard news of a Tsunami hitting the northern pacific and tracking our way. At the time there was little information about the effect it was due to have on French Polynesia however, we weren’t able to leave regardless so it was a case of going to bed and hoping for the best. Thankfully for us, the islanders and our neighboring yachts, there was little to no impact and life resumed as normal.
The boats in the anchorage keep a keen eye on the swell charts. Windows to leave can be weeks apart and many are waiting to start the sometimes daunting passage to Tonga. When swell, tide and wind line up, the activity ramps up as we all start to prepare to leave. There is a narrow, shallow and uncharted route back to the pass which upon leaving we have to cross several wider catamarans who have just entered. It takes careful concentration and a good sonar to ensure we navigate it safely.
We exit the island on a smooth outgoing tide, the gentle ripples against the reef showing no resemblance to the frightening walls of water it produced just 24 hours ago. But that is the beauty of living your life dictated by the ever changing world and we leave the island grateful to have experienced this pocket of Polynesian charm.